Zipper Types and Installation Guide
Anouk Beaumont·Published
Choosing the Right Zipper
Zippers come in several types, each suited to different applications. Choosing correctly affects both the look and function of your finished garment or project.
Zipper Types
- Invisible — coils face inward, hidden in the seam; ideal for dresses and skirts
- Regular/centered — teeth visible, fabric folds cover them equally on both sides
- Lapped — one side overlaps the other, covering the teeth; common in jeans
- Exposed — teeth fully visible as a design element; sporty/modern look
- Separating — opens completely; used in jackets and hoodies
Installation Methods
Invisible Zipper
Requires a special presser foot. Unzip and press coils flat, stitch close to the coil on each side, then close the regular seam below. The result is a closure that disappears into the seam.
Centered Zipper
Baste the seam closed, press open, baste the zipper face-down over the seam allowance, then topstitch from the right side using the basted seam as a guide.
Common Mistakes
Not pressing the zipper tape before installation causes rippling. Skipping the stay tape on lightweight fabrics causes the zipper area to stretch. Always interface the zipper opening area on knit and lightweight fabrics.
