Indian Chikankari: Mughal Embroidery Art

Noor Jahan's Legacy

Chikankari — the delicate white-on-white embroidery of Lucknow, India — traces its origins to the Mughal court. Legend attributes its introduction to Empress Noor Jahan, wife of Emperor Jahangir, who brought Persian embroidery traditions to India in the early 17th century. The word "chikankari" derives from the Persian "chakin," meaning needlework.

36 Stitch Types

Authentic chikankari employs 36 distinct stitch types, each with its own name and application. Key stitches include tepchi (running stitch for outlines), bakhiya (shadow work creating a translucent effect), murri (rice-shaped knots for flower centers), and jali (net-like openwork). Different stitches create varying textures — from flat shadow effects to raised three-dimensional motifs.

Modern Chikankari

Today, chikankari has evolved beyond white-on-white. Artisans work with colored threads on varied fabrics — georgette, chiffon, organza, and cotton. Lucknow remains the epicenter, with over 500,000 artisans (mostly women working from home) producing chikankari garments. The craft received Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2008, protecting authentic Lucknow chikankari from imitations.

• Tepchi: running stitch for basic outlines
• Bakhiya: shadow stitch creating depth effects
• Murri: French knot for floral details
• Jali: openwork net stitch for windows and panels
• GI protected: only Lucknow-region work qualifies