Pattern Drafting Introduction Guide

From Measurements to Garment

Pattern drafting is the process of creating garment patterns from body measurements — the bridge between a design idea and a sewn garment. While commercial patterns are convenient, drafting your own gives you custom fit and unlimited design freedom.

Essential Tools

• Pattern paper (dot paper or Swedish tracing paper)
• Clear quilting ruler (18" x 2") and a hip curve ruler
• Measuring tape
• Mechanical pencil and colored pencils
• French curve for armholes and necklines
• Pattern weights and tracing wheel

The Block (Sloper) System

All pattern drafting starts with a block — a basic pattern that fits your body exactly, with no design features and minimal ease. Common blocks include:

• Bodice block — fitted upper body pattern (front and back)
• Sleeve block — fitted sleeve cap and sleeve
• Skirt block — straight skirt from waist to knee
• Trouser block — fitted pant from waist to ankle

Once you have a well-fitting block, you manipulate it to create designs — adding fullness, moving darts, changing necklines, adding collars, etc.

Key Measurements

For a bodice block, you need at minimum:

• Bust, waist, and hip circumferences
• Back width and front width
• Shoulder length and slope
• Armhole depth
• Center front and center back lengths
• Bust point to bust point distance

Getting Started

Start with a straight skirt block — it is the simplest to draft and fit. Make a muslin (test garment in cheap fabric), fit it on your body, adjust the pattern, and repeat until the fit is perfect. Then try adding design features: A-line, pleats, yoke, wrap style.