Ethiopian Shemma: Weaving the Nation's Cloth
Robin Maitland·Published
The Shemma Tradition
Shemma is the traditional handwoven cotton cloth of Ethiopia, forming the basis of national dress for men and women.
Weaving Process
Shemma is woven on narrow pit looms by male weavers (shemane) of hereditary craft tradition, producing 15cm strips sewn together.
Tibeb Borders
The ornamental border (tibeb) features geometric motifs: crosses reflecting Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity, stars, and interlocking diamonds.
Regional Variations
Harari weavers produce silk-blended shemma with wider tibeb. Tigrayan shemma features heavier cotton with simpler geometric patterns.
Cultural Significance
Shemma is central to life ceremonies: newborns are wrapped at birth, brides wear gold tibeb, and the deceased are shrouded in white shemma.
