The Garment Atlas
oceania pacific

PNG Bilum Bag: Weaving Tradition Guide

James Calloway·Published

The Bilum: Papua New Guinea's Iconic Bag

The bilum is a handwoven string bag that is perhaps the most recognizable cultural artifact of Papua New Guinea. Used by women across the country, bilums serve as carry-alls, baby carriers, and status markers.

Materials and Techniques

Traditional bilums are made from plant fiber — primarily bush string (Corchorus species) or nettle fiber. The string is twisted on the thigh, then looped using a single-needle technique that creates a strong, stretchy mesh fabric.

Regional Variations

Highland bilums feature tight, geometric patterns in earth tones. Coastal bilums tend to be larger with brighter colors. Sepik River communities incorporate shell beads and feathers into ceremonial bilums.

Modern Bilum Economy

Bilum weaving provides income for thousands of PNG women. International fair-trade organizations have helped establish cooperatives that export bilums globally while maintaining traditional techniques and fair pricing.

  • Port Moresby Bilum Festival celebrates the craft
  • Acrylic yarn now supplements traditional fibers
  • Bilum patterns encode clan identity and stories

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