The Garment Atlas
middle east central asia

Uzbek Ikat Adras Silk Weaving Art

Tom Renshaw·Published

Adras: Central Asia's Signature Textile

Adras is a handwoven Uzbek fabric combining silk warp threads with cotton weft, creating a distinctive ikat pattern. The city of Margilan in the Fergana Valley remains the heart of adras production.

Ikat Dyeing Process

Before weaving, warp threads are tightly bound in sections and dyed in stages. Each color requires separate binding and dyeing, building up the characteristic blurred-edge patterns.

Traditional Patterns

  • Anor — pomegranate motif in red and yellow
  • Bodom — almond-shaped medallions
  • Pepper — small repeating geometric motifs

The Chapan Coat

Adras is traditionally sewn into chapan robes — long, quilted coats worn by both men and women. A chapan's quality and pattern indicated the wearer's social status.

Revival Since 2000

After Soviet-era decline, Uzbek ikat has experienced a renaissance. Designers like Dildora Kasimova have brought adras to international fashion runways, while Margilan's workshops train new generations of dyers and weavers.

Related Articles