The Garment Atlas
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Pashmina Kashmir Shawl Craft Guide

Hannah Wickes·Published

The Finest Fiber in the World

Pashmina comes from the undercoat of the Changthangi goat, native to the Ladakh region at altitudes above 14,000 feet. Each goat produces only 80-170 grams of usable fiber per year, making pashmina one of the world's rarest textiles.

From Goat to Shawl

Raw pashmina is collected by combing (not shearing) in spring. Women spin the ultra-fine fiber (12-15 microns) on traditional charkha spinning wheels. Weavers then create shawls on handlooms.

Kani Weaving

The most prestigious technique is kani weaving, where colored threads are wound on small wooden bobbins (kanis). A single kani shawl can require 50-75 colors and take 6-18 months to complete.

Historical Trade

Kashmiri shawls reached Mughal courts in the 16th century, then European aristocracy in the 18th century. Napoleon's wife Joséphine owned hundreds, sparking a European craze that gave us the word "cashmere."

Counterfeiting Crisis

Over 90% of "pashmina" sold globally is counterfeit (viscose or synthetic). Genuine pashmina carries the Geographical Indication (GI) tag and must be certified by Kashmiri authorities.

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