The Garment Atlas
middle east central asia

Afghan Ikat: The Chapan Robe Tradition

Priya Sutaria·Published
Afghan Ikat: The Chapan Robe Tradition

Afghan ikat, known locally as abr (cloud) or chapandi, produces some of the world's most visually striking textiles. The bold, blurred patterns created through resist-dyeing threads before weaving are central to Afghan and Central Asian dress traditions.

The Ikat Process

Artisans bind sections of silk warp threads with waterproof material before dyeing. Multiple rounds of binding and dyeing create multi-colored patterns. The bound sections resist the dye, creating the characteristic blurred edges.

The Chapan Robe

The chapan is a long, quilted coat worn over other garments. Made from ikat-dyed silk or cotton, it features bold stripes and cloud-like patterns. President Karzai's signature green chapan brought international attention to this traditional Afghan garment.

Mazar-i-Sharif: Ikat Capital

Northern Afghanistan, particularly around Mazar-i-Sharif, has been the center of ikat production for centuries. Uzbek and Turkmen weavers maintain traditions that produce some of the finest ikat textiles in Central Asia.

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