Pressing Techniques for Sewing Pros

Pressing vs. Ironing

Ironing slides the iron across fabric, which stretches and distorts grain. Pressing lifts the iron up and sets it down, using weight and steam to flatten seams without moving fibers. Professional-looking garments are pressed, not ironed.

The Press-As-You-Sew Rule

Every seam must be pressed immediately after stitching, before crossing it with another seam. This sets the stitches, flattens the seam allowance, and creates crisp edges that are impossible to achieve at the end.

Essential Pressing Tools

• Tailor's ham — curved surface for pressing darts and rounded seams
• Seam roll — cylindrical cushion for pressing open seams in narrow areas
• Clapper — wooden block that traps steam to flatten thick seams
• Press cloth — protects fabric from direct heat and shine
• Point presser — narrow wooden tool for pressing collar points and corners

Temperature Guide

Silk: low heat with press cloth. Wool: medium-high with steam. Cotton: high heat with steam. Synthetics: low heat, test first. Linen: highest heat with heavy steam.

Finishing Seams

Press seams flat first (to set stitches), then press open or to one side as the pattern directs. Use the clapper on wool and heavy fabrics for razor-sharp creases.