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european folk dress

Greek Fustanella: The Pleated Kilt of the Evzones

Robin Maitland·Published

400 Pleats of History

The fustanella is a white pleated kilt traditionally worn by men across the Balkans, now most famously worn by the Evzones — the ceremonial guards who stand watch at the Greek Parliament and Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Athens. The Evzones fustanella has exactly 400 pleats, symbolizing the 400 years of Ottoman occupation.

Ancient Origins

Pleated skirts were worn by warriors in ancient Greece and the Byzantine Empire. The fustanella evolved from these earlier garments, becoming the standard male dress in mountainous regions of Greece, Albania, and the broader Balkans during the Ottoman period.

Construction

A traditional fustanella is made from white cotton or linen cloth, pleated by hand and then pressed to set the folds. The garment wraps around the waist and is secured with a wide belt or sash. It is worn with white stockings, red clogs (tsarouchia) with black pompons, and a fez or foustanella cap.

Symbol of Independence

The fustanella became a symbol of Greek independence during the 1821 revolution. The klephts (mountain fighters) wore fustanellas as they fought Ottoman forces, and the garment was adopted as national dress after independence.

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