What Is Japanese Clothing Called? A Traditional Care Guide
Decoding the Wardrobe: What Is Japanese Clothing Called?
When exploring East Asian textiles and heritage dress, a common question arises among collectors, historians, and enthusiasts: what is Japanese clothing called? The overarching umbrella term is Wafuku (和服), which translates literally to 'Japanese clothing.' This distinguishes traditional garments from Yōfuku (洋服), or Western-style clothing. However, Wafuku is not a single garment but a complex, layered wardrobe system with specific names, construction methods, and strict care protocols based on the garment's function, season, and the wearer's social context.
Understanding the specific names of these garments is the first step in properly maintaining them. Caring for traditional Japanese clothing requires a departure from modern, fast-fashion laundry habits. It demands an understanding of natural fibers, traditional dyeing techniques like Yuzen and Shibori, and specialized folding methods. Below, we break down the primary garments that answer the question of what Japanese clothing is called, alongside expert, museum-grade care and maintenance guidelines for each.
The Kimono (着物): Silk Care and Professional Maintenance
The most globally recognized answer to 'what is Japanese clothing called' is the Kimono. Translating to 'thing to wear,' the kimono is a T-shaped, straight-lined robe with attached collars and long, wide sleeves. While modern kimonos can be made from polyester or wool, high-quality formal kimonos are crafted from silk, including chirimen (crepe) and rinzu (damask).
Washing and Spot Cleaning
Never wash a silk kimono at home. Water causes silk fibers to shrink, warp, and lose their structural integrity, while traditional paste-resist dyes can bleed catastrophically. Instead, rely on a process called maru-arai (丸洗い), a specialized professional cleaning method where the garment is either cleaned whole using specific solvents or carefully unpicked into its constituent flat panels, washed, and resewn by a shiro (professional cleaner).
- Spot Treatment: If you spill water or sweat on a silk kimono, gently blot (do not rub) with a dry, lint-free cotton cloth. Allow it to air dry away from direct sunlight.
- Collar Care: The kake-eri (collar cover) is designed to be removed and replaced when soiled. This protects the main collar from makeup and skin oils.
Storage and Folding
Kimonos are never hung on standard hangers for long-term storage, as the weight of the wet or heavy silk will distort the shoulders. They are folded using the hon-datami (standard folding) method into a flat rectangle. Once folded, they are wrapped in tatōshi (specialty breathable paper) to protect against dust, light, and moisture, and stored flat in a tansu (wooden chest).
The Yukata (浴衣): Washing and Storing Cotton Summer Wear
While the kimono is formal, the Yukata is the quintessential casual summer garment. Originally worn as a bathrobe by the nobility during the Heian period (794–1185), it evolved into the lightweight, unlined cotton robe worn at summer festivals (matsuri) and hot spring resorts (onsen).
Home Washing Protocols
Unlike silk kimonos, cotton yukatas are designed to be washed. However, indigo-dyed (kon) yukatas are notorious for bleeding dye during their first few washes.
- Preparation: Fold the yukata using the hon-datami method and place it inside a large mesh laundry net. This prevents the fabric from stretching and twisting.
- Washing: Hand wash in cool water (below 30°C) using a mild, neutral pH detergent. If using a machine, select the delicate or hand-wash cycle. Never use bleach or enzymatic detergents, which will degrade the cotton fibers and strip the dye.
- Drying: Do not wring the fabric. Gently press out excess water and hang to dry in a shaded, well-ventilated area. Direct sunlight will cause the vibrant patterns to fade rapidly.
Hakama (袴) and Haori (羽織): Pleat Preservation and Outerwear
To fully answer what Japanese clothing is called, one must look at the layered components. The Hakama is a pleated, divided skirt or wide-legged trouser worn over a kimono, historically associated with samurai and currently worn by martial artists and university graduates. The Haori is a hip- or thigh-length jacket worn open over the kimono.
Maintaining the Hakama Pleats
A formal sendaihira silk hakama features five front pleats and three back pleats, symbolizing the five Confucian virtues (benevolence, righteousness, propriety, wisdom, and fidelity) and the three human bonds.
- Pressing: To maintain the sharp pleats, a hakama must be folded using a specialized wooden or cardboard hakama-ita (folding board).
- Storage: Store the hakama flat. If you must hang it temporarily, use a specialized multi-clip hanger that grips the bottom hem, allowing gravity to pull the pleats straight without crushing them.
Haori Maintenance
Because the haori is an outer layer, it is less prone to sweat damage but highly susceptible to environmental odors and dust. Air your haori outside on a dry, shaded day for a few hours to release trapped moisture and odors. Use a soft-bristled garment brush to gently sweep away dust from the silk surface, always brushing in the direction of the fabric grain.
Fabric Composition & Care Matrix
The following matrix provides a quick-reference guide for the most common traditional Japanese garments, their typical fabrics, and the associated maintenance costs based on 2024-2026 professional service rates in Japan and specialized international cleaners.
| Garment Name | Primary Fabric | Home Care Protocol | Professional Care | Est. Cleaning Cost (USD) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kimono (Formal) | Silk (Chirimen/Rinzu) | Air out, spot blot only | Maru-arai (Solvent wash) | $40 - $90 |
| Yukata (Casual) | Cotton / Linen | Hand wash in mesh net | Not typically required | $0 - $15 |
| Hakama (Pleated) | Silk / Wool / Poly | Brush, use folding board | Pleat re-pressing | $30 - $60 |
| Haori (Jacket) | Silk / Brocade | Shade airing, soft brush | Spot treatment / Ozone | $25 - $50 |
| Jinbei (Loungewear) | Cotton / Hemp | Machine wash (cold) | Not required | $0 |
Essential Tools for the Japanese Garment Wardrobe
Proper maintenance requires specialized tools that respect the geometry and fragility of the garments. Investing in these items will significantly extend the lifespan of your Wafuku.
- Kimono Hanger (Kimono-hanger): A wide, specially shaped hanger that supports the entire shoulder seam without creating stress points or dimples in the silk.
- Tatōshi Paper: Acid-free, breathable paper used to wrap folded garments. Never use plastic bags, which trap moisture and encourage mold growth (kabi).
- Hakama-ita: A rigid board used as a template to ensure the complex geometric folding of the hakama pleats remains perfectly aligned.
- Desiccants (Bōkabi-zai): Silica gel packets or specialized Japanese charcoal sachets placed inside the tansu chest to regulate humidity, which should be kept between 50-55%.
When to Seek a Professional Armon (Washing Specialist)
While basic airing and folding can be managed at home, certain situations require the intervention of a professional shiro or textile conservator. According to conservation guidelines outlined by institutions like the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Asian Textile Department, historical garments with metallic threads (surihaku) or intricate embroidery should never be subjected to home maintenance.
'The conservation of Japanese textiles requires an understanding of both the chemical properties of natural dyes and the structural engineering of the loom. Water-based cleaning on sized silk (hari) can cause irreversible distortion of the weave.' — Adapted from textile conservation principles at the Victoria and Albert Museum.
Seek professional help if you notice:
- Yellowing (ōhen): Often caused by oxidized skin oils or residual starch. Professionals can use specialized bleaching agents that do not compromise the silk.
- Mold Spots: Do not brush mold off dry, as this pushes spores deeper into the weave. A professional will use controlled moisture and antifungal treatments.
- Fraying Hems: The bottom hem (suso) takes the most physical stress. A specialist can re-weave or apply invisible reinforcement patches.
Preserving Living Traditions
Understanding what Japanese clothing is called is more than a vocabulary exercise; it is an entry point into a profound culture of craftsmanship, seasonal awareness, and respect for materials. Whether you are maintaining a vintage Meiji-era silk kimono or a modern, mass-produced cotton yukata, treating the garment with the care dictated by its specific name and construction ensures that these beautiful expressions of Asian heritage endure for future generations. For further historical context on the evolution of these garments, the Kyoto National Museum offers extensive digital archives detailing the transition of Japanese dress from the Nara period through the Edo period.
