The Garment Atlas
americas indigenous

Tlingit Chilkat Weaving: Pacific Northwest Art Form

Daniel Osei·Published

Masterwork of Northwest Coast Art

Chilkat blankets are the most prestigious textiles of the Pacific Northwest Coast peoples. Created primarily by Tlingit weavers, these blankets feature complex formline designs woven from mountain goat wool and yellow cedar bark in a technique unique to this region.

Materials and Process

The warp (vertical threads) is made from mountain goat wool spun around a cedar bark core. The weft is pure mountain goat wool. Natural dyes produce black (hemlock bark and iron), yellow (wolf moss), and blue-green (copper oxide). A single blanket can take a year or more to complete.

Design System

Chilkat blankets follow the Northwest Coast formline design system — the same artistic language used in totem poles and house fronts. The central design typically depicts an animal or spirit being, with symmetrical secondary elements. The designs are painted on pattern boards by male artists and then woven by female weavers.

Ceremonial Use

Chilkat blankets are worn during potlatches and important ceremonies. They are considered property of high rank, displayed and distributed at potlatches to demonstrate wealth and social standing. Historic blankets are treasured heirlooms passed down through clan lineages.

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