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Nigerian Aso-Oke: Yoruba Handwoven Cloth

Amara Diallo·Published
Nigerian Aso-Oke: Yoruba Handwoven Cloth

Aso-Oke: The Prestige Fabric of the Yoruba

Aso-oke (literally "top cloth") is the most prestigious handwoven textile of the Yoruba people of southwestern Nigeria. This strip-woven fabric is reserved for life's most important celebrations.

Types of Aso-Oke

  • Alaari: Deep red/maroon, traditionally dyed with local plants
  • Sanyan: Beige/natural, made from wild silk (anaphe moth)
  • Etu: Dark indigo blue with thin white stripes

Weaving Process

Traditional aso-oke is woven on narrow-strip looms producing bands approximately 4 inches wide. These strips are then sewn together to create larger garments. Male weavers use horizontal looms, while the related aro cloth is woven by women on vertical looms.

Ceremonial Use

Aso-uke garments are essential for weddings, chieftaincy ceremonies, naming ceremonies, and funerals. The agbada (men's flowing gown), buba and iro (women's blouse and wrapper), and gele (head tie) are all crafted from aso-oke.

Modern Innovation

Contemporary weavers have introduced synthetic threads, wider looms, and new color palettes. Lagos fashion designers now incorporate aso-oke into Western-style suits, dresses, and accessories for a modern Nigerian aesthetic.

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