The Garment Atlas
african heritage

Ethiopian Shemma Cotton Weave Art

Beth Carrasco·Published

Shemma: Ethiopia's National Garment

Shemma is the traditional Ethiopian white cotton wrap, worn by women across the highlands. The cloth's defining feature is its tibeb — colorful embroidered or woven borders at the edges.

Hand-Spun Cotton

Ethiopian cotton is hand-spun by women using drop spindles. The resulting yarn has a slightly irregular texture that gives shemma its distinctive character, unlike machine-made fabrics.

Tibeb Border Types

  • Simple tibeb — thin colored stripe, everyday wear
  • Wide tibeb — broad patterned border, special occasions
  • Tilet — multi-colored geometric patterns, festivals

The Shemma Ensemble

A complete shemma outfit includes the large body wrapper and a matching shawl (netela) draped over the shoulders. The way the netela is draped communicates social context — mourning, church, or celebration.

Weaving Centers

Dorze weavers in southern Ethiopia are renowned for their skill. Addis Ababa's Shiro Meda market is the largest trading center, where hundreds of weavers sell directly to customers.

Related Articles